I woke up one morning in The
Garden of Eden. My mother was there and
after fixing me some breakfast, she said, “Go outside and play while I
unpack.” It was hot that day; 10:30 and
it was already 80° in San Jose . Bulldozers had scrapped the earth around our
new tract house. Right out the back
door, there was a thirty foot DMZ and then the neglected orchards. They were doomed to go in the next wave of
building our tract. Right on the edge of
the plum orchard and directly behind our house was a broadly sweeping tree with
huge leaves that looked exotic, just like I imagined palm fronds. The tree was laden with dark purple, almost
black, pear shaped fruit.
We had
just arrived in the Valley of Hearts Delight after a cross country, permanent move
by my parents to find their fortune in California . I knew no one out here. My fellow fourth grade friends in Detroit were in another
world, impossibly far away. Jim, Dick,
and I had run in a pack and continually got in trouble together. I was their leader. The two neighbor girls, Beverly and Frances,
down the street in Detroit
had just turned ten and eleven that spring.
They had been teaching me how to play Doctor. We would do this in the basement. One of the sisters would stay on lookout
while the other one and I would play "full checkup." We kept looking for whatever it was our
parents were scared we would find, but we never did find it. I felt alone
without my Detroit
friends and no new ones to be found until September, two months away.
Back in the house my mother
told me, “This is fruit. A fig and it’s
okay to eat if you wash it.” At the fig
tree, I pulled a big fat one off and wiped it on my T-shirt. It was hot and when I bit in, it exploded in
my mouth, almost with effervescence, like it had been fermenting.
Figs from the store are
nothing like the ones you pick from the tree on a hot summer day. Dried, they are too chewy because there's
more skin than pulp. Cold, they are too
fleshy and disgusting, like eating a piece of raw animal. But big and hot and ripe, the fig fills you
with rich sugary sweetness.
Like any fourth grade boy in
those days, I was curious and fearless, and thus I began my summer of
wanderings through the orchards of San
Jose . After
living all my life in a city, I was immersed in such solitude that I would roam
from sun-up to sun-down and rarely see another living soul, except birds. The joy to me was the fecundity of the
land. Around the ugly scar of our rock
and cement-droppings back yard, I found wild tomato plants, sprouted from the
seeds of construction workers' lunches.
They blossomed without tending and produced the most beautiful
fruit. The dusty heat of the Santa Clara Valley summer added to the aroma and the
taste.
The smell of tomato plant
when you crinkle a leaf or two still drives me wild with memories. The taste of those small, hot tomatoes was
rich and filling, in with one bite and chewed with two more.
All the fruit around me then
was much smaller than the things you get in stores today. Plums and tomatoes are sold by the
pound. These days they grow them to hold
more water and then the growers profit 89¢ a pound from free rain and
irrigation water.
Beyond the fig tree was the
orchard of plums. The ground below each
tree was strewn with rotting plums, but there still was a limitless supply in
the trees. The sweet smell of these
wasp-covered rotting plums was delicious.
My mouth watered and I had to learn the hard way, to control my daily
intake of ripe plums. They were tiny and
you could pop the whole thing into your mouth.
Just picture all the flavour
of one of those giant plums you get today concentrated into a piece of fruit a
quarter the size, without irradiation, chemicals or poisons.
Since they fit into the mouth
whole, the trick was to bite across the broadest part of the fruit. They were ovoid in shape like a partly
flattened egg with a seam. You bit on
this seam and the plum would split in two.
Then you could extract the pit, still in your mouth and spit it
out. If the plum was properly ripe, the
pit would separate easily.
I was so in tune with the
earth, as the weeks passed by, that periodically as I ran into a large mound of
freshly bull-dozed dirt, I stripped and buried myself in it up to my arm pits,
just to feel the earth in touch with my body.
To balance the sugary aspect
of this daily diet of tomatoes, figs and plums, there were walnuts and
almonds. I learned that summer how to
harvest a walnut. The skin was thick and
light green if I pulled one off the tree.
The juice in the skin was so strong that it stained my hands and took
days to work off. If the green skin
sealed the nut shell, I couldn't get it off; it was bonded to the shell. I had to wait for the skin to dry out and
start to fall off. Once the shell was on
the ground with no skin I couldn't tell how old the walnut was. So best was to spot a withered or cracked
skin that could be easily flicked away.
Then I broke open the shell by placing the walnut between the bases of
my two palms, like I was praying. I kept
the seam between the two halves of the walnut shell in contact with my
palms. I interlocked my fingers for more
leverage, and then squeezed and the walnut shell split in two. Too green and the walnut meat was chewy and
bitter. If it was too old, it was like a
black peanut. Just right was tasty and
full of protein. Almonds had a stronger
flavour and I could crack them in my mouth.
It was the same routine with the outer shells though; but almonds had
fuzzy skins.
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